MRP: Genoa

Genoa

Editorial history

02/12/11, CSG: Created page
27/12/11, CSG: Added hypertext Table of Contents

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See Livorno
See Marseilles
See Messina
See Naples
See Venice

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Town profile: Genua, 1670

Genua, 1670: Richard Lassels, A Voyage of Italy

"Embarking at Savona in a Feluca we rowed along the Shoar (called la Riviere di Genoa) unto Genua it self; and all the way long we saw such a continual Suburbs of stately Villas and Villages, that these scantlings made us love with the whole Piece it self, Genua. I confess, I never saw a more stately abord to any City then to this...

Genua is one of the chief-Towns that stand upon the Mediterranean Sea, and one of the best in Italy. The common Italian Proverb, calls it, Genua la Superba: and if ever I saw a Town with its Holy-day clothes alwayes on, it was Genua. It stands upon the side of a hill, and rising by degrees, appears to those that look upon it from the Sea, like an Ampitheater. Heretofore it was only fortified by Marble Bullworks, that is great Hills of Marble which backt it up: but, some forty years ago it was environed with new walls, carrying six miles in compass, and yet finished in eighteen moneths.

The Haven heretofore was very unsafe, and many Ships which had tugg'd through the most dangerous Seas abroad, were seen to sink here in the Haven at home; the French, then Masters of Genua, not suffering her to shut up her haven, least she should shut them out, But since she hath shaken off the French yoak, she hath locked up her Treasures, and bolted the door on the inside, by that admirable Mola, which crossing almost quite over the Bay, or Haven, doth not onely bolt out all Enemies, but even locks up the boisterous Sea it self, and makes it tame in the Haven. It is a prodigious work, and able to have puzzeld any two Kings in Europe to have done it.

At one end of this Mola stands the Pharos upon a little rock, with a Lantern upon it, to give notice, by knowne signes, what Ships, how many, and from what side they Come: or else to guide their own Ships home safely in the night. At first it was onely a little Fort for to help to bridle Genua, and it was built be Lewis the XII of France.

As for the Town it self of Genua its most beautiful to behold: many of the houses being painted on the outside, and had their Arras hangings hung on their outsides....

The Streets are very narrow: so that they use here fe Coaches, but many Sedans and Litters. This makes the noise in the streets less, and the expence in the purse smaller. But, for want of ground and earth, they make heaven pay for it; taking it out in the height of their houses, what they want in breadth or length...

...But since Genua shook of the French Yoke, it hath lived perpetually jealous of the French, especially since it discovered, some years past, divers attempts of France against it, whilest the French had Portolongone and Piombino.

For this reason, the Genuesi lean much to the Spanish Faction; and Fashions following faction, they lean also much to the Spanish fashion both in humor and apparel. Hence I found here Broad Hats without Hatbands, broad Leather girdles with steel buckles, narrow Breeches with long-waited Doublets and handing-sleeves, to be a la mode, as well as in Madrid. And I found all the great Ladies here to go like the Donnas of Spain in Guardinfantas, that is, in horrible overgrown Fartingals of whalebone, which being put about the waste of the Lady, and full as broad on both sides as she can reach with her hands, bear out her Coats in such a huffing manner, that she appears to be as broad as long....Two of these Ladies meeting one another in these narrow Streets, make as great an Embarras as two Carts of Hay do upon London Bridge....

...As for their Riches, I am told they passe not a Million and two hundred thousand Crowns a year...So that the Common purse here is nothing so rich as that of Venice, though the particular men here are farr richer than those of Venice. They have great Trading both iwth France and Spain, and are great Banquiers, making the Change in all the Bancks of Europe go as they please. Besides, they utter a world of Taffetas, Velvets, Sattins, Points of needlework, and divers other things of Value."

(Richard Lassels, A Voyage of Italy)

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Suggested image sources

Port of Genoa; Map by Pierre Mortier (Amsterdam, c. 1650), from Collezione Topografica del Comune di Genova, n. inv. 1182
- See: http://www.semp.us/publications/biot_reader.php?BiotID=478, viewed 27/07/11

See Cartografica nautica: Genoa

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Suggested primary sources

Richard Lassels, The Voyage Of Italy, Or A Compleat Journey through Italy: In Two Parts : With the Characters of the People, and the Description of the Chief Towns, Churches, Monasteries, Tombs, Libraries, Pallaces, Villa's, Gardens, Pictures, Statues, and Antiquities. As Also of the Interest, vol. 1 (Paris, 1670)

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