View source for Tools: Textiles, garments & dyestuffs glossary sub-group

'''Texiles, garments & dyestuffs glossary sub-group'''

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==What is the C17th Textiles, Garments & Dyestuffs glossary sub-group?==

[[File:Poll Sort Glossary By Use Or Date 19012018.JPG|500px|thumb|right|24 hour Twitter poll conducted 17/01/2018, n=6, concerning preferred glossary entry structure ]]

[[File:Textiles & Garments Sleuths 18012018.JPG|450px|thumb|left|[https://twitter.com/Marinelivesorg Tweet us] or [http://marinelives.org/wiki/Special:MarineLivesContact Email us] your contributions. To learn more about the Textiles, Garments & Dyestuuffs volunteer sub-group which is coordinating this glossary [[Tools: Textiles, garments & dyestuffs glossary sub-group|click here]]. Do please consider joining]]

[[File:Clothing Of Common Sort Spufford Mee 2017 18012018.JPG|450px|thumb|left|Dr Susan Mee, member of the glossary sub-group, is co-author of the recently published book, [https://global.oup.com/academic/product/the-clothing-of-the-common-sort-1570-1700-9780198807049?cc=us&lang=en&# Margaret Spufford & Susan Mee, The Clothing of the Common Sort, 1570-1700 (Pasold Studies in Textile History, 2017)]]]

'''Purpose'''

'''We have formed a sub-group of MarineLives volunteers to work on our [[Tools: Textiles, garments, & dyes glossary|communal C17th textiles, garments & dyestuffs glossary]] - establishing policies, adding terms, researching new entries, and working with our active Twitter and wiki readership to solicit new soures and commentaries.'''

The glossary was established on December 24th, 2017. It is a primary source based web resource, and is being developed from early and mid-C17th English High Court of Admiralty documents, second half of the C17th Chancery Court documents relating to commercial disputes, second half of the C17th Prerogative Court of Canterbury merchants' inventories, and a London coastal portbook from the 1650s.

The terms are referenced to primary manuscript sources, typically linked to manuscript images and full text transcriptions. As of 18/01/2018, the glossary contains ca. 1000 terms.

'''Contributing to the glossary'''

We are using the [https://twitter.com/Marinelivesorg @Marinelivesorg] Twitter account to solicit new commentary and edits on specific terms, which we are incorporating into the glossary. We will acknowledge all contributions, but reserve the right (with the agreement of contributors) to make small editorial changes. Recent tweets related to the glossary can be found at [https://twitter.com/search?q=%23C17textilesglossary&src=tyah #C17textilesglossary]
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==Issues for discussion==

* What specialist knowledge and skills do we have amongst members of this sub-group related to textiles, garments and dyestuffs?
* Are there particular topics individuals wish to focus on?
* How shall we allocate work on a weekly or bi-weekly basis?
* Should we form an editorial group?
* Should we develop more formal editorial standards?
* Should we include references to use of terms in the glossary outside C17th (both earlier and later)?
* How should we establish new manuscript sources for the period 1627-1677, related to the themes of the glossary, and ideally to MarineLives, which we can image and transcribe as new sources for the glossary?

=== Open questions ===

Questions and chat about specific items and processes may be found on the [[Talk:Tools: Textiles, garments & dyestuffs glossary sub-group|Glossary's Discussion page.]]

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==Potential new primary sources for the glossary==
===Port Books===

<u>Communication from Peter Taylor to Colin Greenstreet, 20/01/2018</u>

"In terms of which Port Books you might want to photograph and transcribe you are really spoilt for choice for London Port Books in your period. Survival rates for the Civil War period are much higher than at most other ports so the 1640's would be of considerable interest. London had more customs officials than anywhere else so consequently more Port Books to complete each year. You need to decide what type of information you want in order to select the correct officials' account e.g. if you want to know descriptions and quantities but are not interested in values then the Surveyor or Searcher accounts are generally the fullest as they were based on a physical inspection of the laded goods. Wool and leather goods had their own separate books as did those goods subject to the New Impositions. Aliens also had their goods recorded in separate accounts. Coastal books do not feature money except that some mention the amount of the bond the master / merchant had to enter into as surety against export. Occasionally they mention why the certificate attesting to the coastal delivery of the goods was not available (lost, plague or shipwreck). Recording practises varied enormously between ports, e.g. Bristol did not record any inwards coastal trade and the lack of financial interest meant that some Coastal Port Books give a less than complete view of trade. This seems to vary enormously from commodity to commodity depending on the incentives to trade illicitly.

In terms of merchant status they are normally listed as indigenous, alien or denizen although often Scottish or Irish merchants are listed as such rather than as alien. Although outside my period, you sometimes see entries listing a merchant as "ind et ali" which I think refers to the Navigation Acts which required a certain percentage of the crew to be English so the entry is recording the presence of both English and foreign crew. (I will need to double-check this).

In terms of importance, note that there are no other trade statistics available between the farming of the Customs by James I and the setting up of the Board of Trade, therefore the C17th Port Books are particularly important if you want to try and value England's import and export trade. You also need to be aware that valuations are notional based on the Book of Rates in force at the time with only un-listed items having "real" values based on a merchant's declaration on oath. In my case, tobacco pipes have "real" wholesale values only prior to 1635. This can work in your favour if you can read a valuation in the Port Book but the quantity is illegible - you can work the calculation backwards."
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===Dyers inventories===

[[File:Inventories Volunteering 07012018.JPG|500px|thumb|left|Selected C17th Prerogative Court of Canterbury dyers inventories for London & surrounds, held at TNA]]
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==Sub-group membership==

[https://twitter.com/SilkDamask Dr Kimberly Alexander]
Freyalynn Close-Hainsworth
[http://www.marinelives.org/wiki/Tools:_January_2018_biographies#Nicola_Clarke Nicola Clarke]
[https://twitter.com/pkmarmor Paula Marmor]
[http://www.marinelives.org/wiki/Tools:_January_2018_biographies#Susan_Mee Dr Susan Mee]
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==Existing glossary contributors==

[https://twitter.com/SilkDamask Dr Kimberly Alexander], [https://twitter.com/Mchapelproject Dr Aaron Allen], [https://twitter.com/CarolynArenaPhD Dr Carolyn Arena], [https://twitter.com/cynthiawriter Cynthia Chin], [https://twitter.com/nikkiclarke1 Nicola Clarke], [https://twitter.com/Freyalyn Freyalynn Close-Hainsworth], Eglantine, [https://twitter.com/FatahBlack Dr Karwan Fatah-Black], [https://twitter.com/helengood Helen Good], [https://twitter.com/Marinelivesorg Colin Greenstreet], [https://twitter.com/t_e_griffiths Tracey E Griffiths], [https://twitter.com/Textilisnet Viveka Hansen], [https://twitter.com/davehPars Dave Henderson], Dr Stefan Hessbrüggen-Walter, [https://twitter.com/JRHTweed Jeffrey Hopper]; [https://twitter.com/Heather1576 Heather Knight], [https://twitter.com/MKrygier Dr Marcin Krygier], [https://twitter.com/Hollie_Babbitt M.L. Logue], the pseudonymous [https://twitter.com/_mapnut Mapnut], [https://twitter.com/angela_mcshane Dr Angela McShane], [https://twitter.com/pkmarmor Paula Marmor], [https://twitter.com/HistorySPM Dr Susan Mee], [https://twitter.com/menno_jonker Menno Jonker], [https://twitter.com/AngyMiddleton Angela Middleton], [https://twitter.com/ARebelHand Frances Owen], [https://twitter.com/timtheweaver Tim Parry-Williams], [https://twitter.com/restalrig Dr Michael Pearce], [https://twitter.com/LzbethP Elizabeth Pimblett], [https://twitter.com/sophiejpitman Dr Sophie Pitman], [https://twitter.com/voetnoot Mark Ponte],[https://twitter.com/mentionthewar Dr Jo Pugh], [https://twitter.com/debsherlock Dr Deborah Sherlock], [https://twitter.com/StephenSnelders Dr Stephen Snelders], [https://twitter.com/IanStoll Ian Stoll], [https://twitter.com/VerrierRd20 Peter Taylor], [https://twitter.com/harchivist Dr Samantha Thompson], [https://twitter.com/BexUnsworth Rebecca Unsworth]
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==Today's featured new glossary entry==

[[File:Very Revised Bombazin 15012018.JPG|500px|thumb|center|[http://www.marinelives.org/wiki/Tools:_Textiles,_garments,_%26_dyes_glossary#B 'Bombazin', Textiles, Garments & Dyestuffs Glossary entry]]]
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